Schiaparelli: Haute Couture show Spring/Summer 2018 (with interview)

Creative Director: Bertrand Guyon Collection: An ode to travel and nature, with references to Africa combined with the codes of the house. Focus: on the insects embroidered on a silk blouse or the felines on an organza dress marquetry of a serpent and a python on a skirt. The use of natural materials such as raffia for a black netted gilet and other more technical materials such as nylon for a mesh bustier dress. Embroidered, in relief or painted, butterflies appear on evanescent muslin dresses or on accessories such as the high heels. A harness of flowers in leather appears on a pleated dress made from tulle and feathers. Shocking pink used for a heart dress. To note: the collaboration with Lucie de la Falaise for a series of braided handbags crafted from natural materials, blending savoir-faire and a bohemian spirit. Interview: I started with the Schiaparelli pagan collection, I always try to have a strong link to the history and heritage of the house, but this time as Africa hasn’t been used by Schiaparelli, I wanted to do something more personal and so I began with effectively a more African inspiration. Then I wanted to invent this improbable story of an English or Scottish lady, from the fifteenth century, end of The Middle Ages, going to Africa to meet these incredible queens of this African civilization who’ve disappeared today. There’s an Elizabethan aspect that’s come back, with fabrics that were inspired by tapestry so also there is a jacket made in tapestry, embroidery that’s done with cultured pearls, and culture pearls were a sign of royalty, of power because at one point they were more expensive than diamonds. Then of course there’s some natural materials like raffia, and the more contemporary materials such as nylon, the nylon thread with these dresses knitted entirely by hand. There are always small codes of the house, signs, symbols that make up the heritage of the house, that are more widely known such as the latches embroidered onto jacket pockets, pockets that are a bit oversized and pockets that are inspired by Schiaparelli’s jackets when she made her huge puffed pockets so it’s still always related to the Schiaparelli spirit.Music from the show (for use only in context of the show, under cover of the right to information)

Copyright : Paris Modes Productions

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