Mary Katrantzou Women's Fall/Winter 2014/15 Collection in London (with itw)

The Mary Katrantzou show exudes positive energy. The designer leads us into another world rich and brimming with images that entice us… For next winter, it is a question of symbols and uniforms of all trades (mechanic, worker, butcher or boyscout). But with Miss Katrantzou, nothing should be taken at face value. Emblems and other embellishments including stones and jewellery are worked together, even embroidered on lace. These become centre pieces on dresses or as a print that permeates fur sweaters. Silhouettes are elongated, long skirts endless and when pleated, these folds vanish on one side, the other ending in sophisticated brocades or occasionally in lace. Metallic detailing transforms certain dresses into armour, with fabric draped over one shoulder in the image of Greek goddesses, perhaps giving us an insight into the origins of Mary Katrantzou…Music from the fashion showMary Katrantzou :Symbolism is such a wide word and anything under the sun goes under it but I think it gave me the freedom to see the symbolism that applied to this collection in terms of the mood, the silhouette, the woman and it also allowed me to work with lace or brocades and jewellery and just really work with the intricacies that symbolism can create, from as simple as a very graphic motif to creating a pagan god out of a fleur-de-lis or a stop sign or whatever it is, there is beauty in that so the entire collection started in uniforms and then it became more about the symbols that differentiate everyone in uniform.Again, this is something that I hadn’t done in the past because my work has mostly been about structure and construction and you can’t do that when you are doing dresses in foam so I wanted that really elongated woman, I wanted that racer stripe that takes you down the silhouette and it becomes about something but not really about anything at all and I think it was freeing for me to try those lengths, those silhouettes, that movement.It is all about that balance and a lot of the clothes were very symmetrical this season as well so I felt it is important because of how many different ways that you can take symbolism to have a little bit about everything, like the drape that came from the butchers’ aprons, it was just draped around in a way that makes it soft and it becomes not about that at all.

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