Mary Katrantzou Fall Winter Collection 2013/14 in London (with itw)

Mary Katrantzou is inevitably associated with prints and colour. For next season, the designer takes a new turn with more monochrome and architectural silhouettes and goes even further, by using black and white photographs by Edward Steichen, Clarence White and even Alfred Stieglitz. Landscapes are widely presented on models and as always are made in large volumes, this time in darker tones surrounding black and gray. Mary chose to express herself mainly through materials (brocade, jacquard, wool, lace, chiffon) by experimenting with new ways to combine and work them.

Music from fashion show

Mary Katrantzou : This season we wanted to move away from prints and it was important to me to explore fabrication and that could be leather, lace, brocades, needle felted wood or Swarovski that we needle felted and then applied nylon threads and then over printed it so it was more of an exploration of all the different fabrications you can get from one idea and also to try to explore something more romantic, more whimsical, especially because I think it's very easy to categorize a designer within one.

I work with a lot of different imagery that I put together and I collage and I create a fantastical world and then a lot of that is explored through the fabrication, through putting different ones together and merging them and just exploring all the potential that each image, shape or fabrication has.

My work has always been about volume and focus but I think before you strip away the colours it's very difficult for somebody to concentrate on that, so I thought it was time for me remove that, pull that away and concentrate on what I think has been part of my work, but is very difficult for somebody to see through that before, so I hope we achieved that.

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