18 set 2017
Carlin Creative Trend Bureau – New York Fashion Week SS18
18 set 2017
The New York fashion week reinvents itself. Rodarte’s and Proenza Schouler’s departure for Paris did not undermine the optimism and vitality of the Big Apple, although the context is significantly different.
Under the impulse of Raf Simons, Calvin Klein regains its relevance; the vitality of Coach makes it one of the most interesting label on the market; Shayne Oliver, the creator of Hood By Air, awoke the Helmut Lang house while Rihanna provided the show with her bikers for Fenty X Puma collection. Alexander Wang's night-time performance was full of urban energy, while Marc Jacobs surprised everyone with a collection under neo-Creole influence, confirming Carlin’s theme Rutilant, we love you mister Jacobs!
New York designers have injected new energy and vitality into light tones. But if the pale roses and blues are still very present, it is the lilac that emerges as the next season’s pastel. No sentimentality or romanticism in this approach to mauve; it is resolutely urban.
Lilac in all its forms, power-glam at Tom Ford, on a large knitted sweater at Mickael Kors or masculine costume at Victoria Beckham. And in total-look, of course!
The ruffle is still up-to-date for season PE18 and many labels have treated it, most often in asymmetry and on diversified fabrics. It is mainly worked in pallets of neutral urban tones, for a very “downtown” ruffle style.
Philip Lim proposes a plain blouse + printed ruffled skirt combo, while at Simkai and Self Portait ruffles are associated with masculine stripes. Well, the next highlight on New York collections is ...
The American designers love stripes, it is a fact, a bit like the English love florals or the Italians fancy leopard pattern, referring to the most stubborn clichés! But if it’s true that US sportwear has a consubstantial relationship with stripes (what would Mr. Hilfiger think about it?) we note this season that they are treated with a certain contemporary elegance.
Horizontal, vertical or in the bias, it is obvious that among New York labels, stripes are mainly worked on a silhouette in length. Not really sportwear, then. Must pay attention to clichés.
For begining of season, the references to functional clothing are numerous, whether it is parka or windbreaker, let’s say everything that is synthetic with drawstrings and zippers.
Special mention to Rihanna for her Fenty X Puma collection, which has by herself embodied the Stunt Biker trend, obviously the hottest fashion attitude of the moment.
The Manhattan’s Glamazone
Recurring figure of the fashion iconography made in NYC, the urban adventurer is more fit than ever, both sexy and post-gender, sporty but also artist-minded, she’s the coolest girl on earth.
She's doesn’t care about LA's super-healthy girls, kale is so has-been anyway. She has given up yoga, she practices boxing of course.
New York Fashion Week PE18
By Thomas Zylberman, for Carlin Creative Trend Bureau.
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