After four successful years of loyal services, Christophe Lemaire revealed his last vision of the Hermès woman as artistic director on this last day of collections. And we felt the heat from the first pieces. A catwalk stuck in the sand, and an orange light evoking an escapade in Africa. White, ecru and grege, open the show for the enveloping and comfortable outfits, constituting of pleated skirts, large jackets, loose trousers, light skirts with splits and shirts with rolled up sleeves. An omnipresent and perceptible comfort, with volume and light materials which fall impeccably. A long sleeveless jacket in cashmere with a collar wrapped like a scarf keeps you warm in the fresh evenings. Crocodile skin was used for the Bermuda shorts, mixed with knitted jumpers and also suede sweatshirts. The print was seen on many pieces in strong tones for the tunic dresses tied at the waist with a large belt. The clothes play a protective role. True to his image, Christophe Lemaire leaves this house with softness and elegance, to concentrate on the development of his eponymous label.Interview: Christophe Lemaire: It’s the last season but it’s done with serenity and with feeling even like a kind of accomplishment, there isn’t any bitterness, on either side, it was a mature, considered decision that we thought about, and then there was the difficulty of developing my brand, whilst successfully carrying out the two things at the same time, and I have enough love and feelings for the Hermès brand, to feel like I had started to be a bit everywhere at once.I think that for a designer it is a huge privilege to work with such a knowhow, and with such quality of work! There was an African thread in fact of Sahel with perhaps inspiration from my childhood in Senegal so there is a very dry heat, earthy tones, very matte whites, matte textures, these prints as well which certain ones are really like African prints. Then these colours which bit by bit become quite solar. An idea as well of looseness, of movement, freedom of movement and comfort. Music from the show.
Hermès- Collection spring/summer 2015 in Paris (with interview)
Copyright : Paris Modes Productions