Jacquemus - Women's Fall/Winter 2014/15 Collection in Paris (with itw)

On this first day of Paris Fashion Week, the final show belongs to young Marseillaise designer, Simon Porte Jacquemus who puts his woman-child models in white Adidas tennis shoes, masculine trousers and cocooning skirt and sweatshirt. Neoprene, stand-out material of this collection, is the pretext for oversized coats, micro-jackets, tops layered on top of skirts, creating uncluttered ensembles whose geometric forms recall the 60s aesthetic extolled by Pierre Cardin, André Courrèges and even Paco Rabanne. But don’t think of this collection as old fashioned; quite the contrary, it is well established in the reality of today. Bright shades of yellow and orange are followed by nuances of pastel blue, marine blue and white. Post-it patches appear on outfits in baize. Freshness, modernity and positive energy define this wardrobe, stamped with a strong French identity!!!Interview:Simon Porte Jacquemus:We took this idea of a child’s painting and so the basis was to have something more imaginative, and I always devise my collections with a métier or a very specific place, exactly like having a sort of fantasy. I’m not saying that there isn’t a story, I just mean that the Jacquemus girl is a dreamer, she doesn’t know if she is still a girl or a woman so there is an ambiguity with this look; she tries on men’s trousers but also a large feminine dress,she puts on these girlish disguises and then one of her father’s oversized coats so it was all about this idea of ambiguity.At home, I work on large volumes and I liked neoprene because it brought this notion of a play-mat, something playful. I like uniformity; I don’t like collections that use 60 million different materials that are meaningless, I like to have a clear message.This time, it is more couture sportswear, there is something more couture in the volumes and the geometric shapes but for me, sport means 2014, it is current, it is today, girls wear trainers but I have said for years it is about girls wearing trainers.Although Made In France is not my way of doing things, I do produce in France, I am very proud of that but it isn’t my method but it is still a French clin d’oeil because I like that my fashion is French but not Parisian, it is definitely French. Music from the fashion show

Copyright : Paris Modes Productions

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